We decided to go to Panama and to spend some of the time exploring the rainforest with a tour company. The 2007 Frommers Panama book recommended Aventuras Panama ("one of Panama's top rafting and kayaking tour companies", p.71) and the website was easy to access. Ahhh, the "Chagres Challenge" - it was exactly what the 5 of us wanted and we were very excited at the prospect of it. I was fairly timid about booking and paying for the trip through the internet and emails. Speaking to Javier on the phone reassured me especially as he was so professional and pleasant, and we quickly agreed on the trip we could do and the amount. The payment procedure through a website in B.C. was pretty scary, the amounts didn't seem to match the amount we had discussed, the deposit went through as more than twice the amount I had intended with a click of a button. Emails to Javier and the other site quickly reassured me again, and even though the amounts didn't seem to make any sense, I felt comfortable that it would be worked out once we hooked up in Panama.

Communication once we arrived was messy. We were away from the resort for the first 2 days so missed Javier's call and the front desk at the resort told him there was no one staying there by that name, no party of 5, even though I had left specific contact instructions with them about our whereabouts. On our return, I thought a quarter would be the charge for a local call so my calls to Javier were strange, me plunking in quarters and running out of time and coins before we were clear about the details.

But 5 a.m. Friday arrived and we waited for the pick up at the lobby - no show....wondering if it was all a scam....back to the room to find Javier's cell phone, not knowing the name of the guide picking us up....feeling sick with guilt for not paying better attention to the process of booking the trip.

Then at 5:30, a fully loaded 4x4 was there, raft, kayaks and tents on top, a sight that was so good to see. And Raphael, lively and friendly, there with the visa slips to sign, still the amounts were strange but we figured it out and put off paying the balance until the end of the trip. He was not only a naturalist and very knowledgable about Panama, but he was also a very accomplished birder complete with big heavy bird books for us to use. Wow!

The road ahead passed through Panama City urban sprawl and traffic jams into winding mountainous mixed forest and farms, getting smaller and smaller until it was just a track, steep and deeply eroded. And there at the bottom of a steep hill beside a river were the 5 horses tacked up and ready, and men to help us. We explored the river while the horses were packed up. We left two small bags as instructed in the vehicle, clean dry clothes to change into at the end.

We hiked for a long time (1 1/2 hours?), up and down steep hills, through forest and farm, birding and soaking up the surroundings. One of the highlights of this part of the trip was that we all walked over a quiet little brown snake that was identified as a young fir de lance, still curled up and stiff from the night. At one point Bree became a little faint and so the horseman cut us all some coconuts for a drink. And after crossing yet another river, we stopped. We swam in a deep crystal clear pool in the river while Raphael and Rigo made our lunch. The rafts and kayaks were inflated and packed and we said goobye to the horses and helpers and set off on the river.

We were to stop around 4 to camp. We crossed many small sections of rapids, often having to push our kayaks a bit as the water was low, getting used to the boats and enjoying the beautiful water and scenery. The river joined the Chagres and the last part of the day was in deeper water, moving fast and much more challenging rapids (still only class II ). All beginner kayakers, it was a great way to learn how to manage the rapids.

Around 4 we pulled over onto a sandy beach and stopped for the night. It was paradise. We were surrounded by steep hills covered with primary rainforest. A little tributary joined the main river at this beach and the lighting from the sparkling water and overhanging trees was stunning. The beach was thick with tiny frogs that leapt for safety at each step. We floated in our life jackets down the stretch of river in front of us. We had learned our lesson about snakes and stayed on the sand and rocks, exploring, napping, reading. Raphael told us why the bird life was so quiet, that when the forest is climactic, there isn't the busy-ness of disturbed areas. We absorbed our surroundings while Rigo and Raphael set up the tents and cooked dinner. At dusk we found a huge spider behaving strangely. As we watched, she slowly emerged from her old skin into a be-jeweled new body that hung limply and gradually swelled with some secret fluids. We played with the giant frogs who had arrived for the evening. We dined on beans and peppers, potatoes, sausages and chicken and wine.

I found myself thinking of my father's four years on a wild river in Thailand and Burma. He was a Japanese POW in WW II. It must have been a little like this place. Did they eat up all the frogs, spiders and other creatures there? As they moved on did they leave behind ravaged nature that would gradually send out new life and remove all traces of their stay? What part of him did that experience become?

The night was long trying to sleep on the hard sand with only a thin mattress. We laughed the next morning finding out that we had all been longing for the morning to come quickly as we lay there looking at the sky through the tent vents. Who needs to sleep at times like this. Four sunbitterns were having a morning across the river as we packed up. They didn't seem to realize we were so close, with the sounds of moving water and the shade of the overhanging trees obscuring them.

As I sat on the stony beach looking out over the water I had the thought that this is the only place in the world where I feel totally safe. There is nothing that is impending here, it is all done, and we are there just to be in it, to experience it. No one is making use of it, forcing it into some kind of human purpose, it just is. That was the most important moment of my whole trip to Panama.

Back on the river we spent our second day scanning the forest for wildlife and playfully racing, splashing, capsizing and floating as the river took us with it. The surroundings were stunning and the water clear and inviting. At lunch time Raphael and Rigo made us rice and squid and we worked on finishing the wine. We discussed Panama's history and politics gaining a richer understanding of this country.

In the middle of the afternoon we saw our first signs of human activity and a piece of my heart broke. I said to Raphael," We are leaving the wild?" And he said,"Yes." And the river gradually became busy with Embarro homes and finally we changed from our kayaks to dugout motor boats. We passed tour boats coming up the river with more folks like us. I felt very grateful for our entended and personalized time on the river.

Jackie

No, I didn't see the peccaries but the others did. I think Rob spotted them first then the big raft , I was last at the time. Yeah, that was amazing so they said, the disadvantage of going last.

The mission, objective and goals of this ONG are focused  on preservation of the Harpy Eagle and its natural habitat.

Currently it manage the Harpy Eagle section at Jardín Botánico Summit (Tel. 232-4850, 232-4854), Panama City´s Zoo.

Be a good buddy to your buddy, if you know he will appreciate becoming a member of Aventuras Panamá  ezine, Atrevete a Vivir, let him know about it: 

 (refer this ezine to a friend)